The realm of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for all. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one up to see what all of the hoopla was using this drifter.
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very inexpensive price. Handling is nice too after you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts a very great deal of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, which means that this car should grow along with you when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts on the bottom for your front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually several left empty. They can be employed to control chassis flex, yet not with all the stock top deck; an optional you need to be obtained. The design is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll as the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious level of steering throw they may have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near to the edges from the chassis as you can. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Although it is not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable utilizing a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a little bit of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, but I do remember a technique I used some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a go of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the outer having a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to accomplish a photograph shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and get some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is fairly amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. The CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a little bit funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This really is, partly, due to the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete simply that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to affect the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a little as well as the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for simply that. I have done really need to be a bit creative with the install in the system due to limited space in the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving connected touring cars for quite a while, it can do go on a little getting used to with the knowledge that an auto losing grip and sliding is correctly across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you buy it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at lower than several inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, as well as the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you think like you require more of something anything there’s a good amount of things to adjust. I actually enjoyed the car using the kit setup and yes it was only a matter of battery power pack or two before I was swinging the rear throughout the hairpins, around the carousel and to and fro throughout the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s little you could do to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything that fast. I have done, however, come with an trouble with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little bit drag brake. I kept with it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon had to RPM Traxxas slash parts it in to actually check it out. Throughout the build, the belt slips into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it appears in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.